About this blog . . .

This blog is about 80% journal, 20% review. These posts may describe very recent visits or visits taking place in the last 3 or 4 years--please feel free to update or correct any of my information in the comments or through an email message.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Laura, A Creole Plantation, New Orleans

The Laura Plantation an hour drive outside of New Orleans provides a somewhat different plantation tour experience from those offered in cotton-growing areas of the Old South.  The plantation grew sugar, not cotton, but more importantly, it emphasizes the Creole culture of Louisiana.  The history of slavery in formerly French-controlled territory follows a slightly different path, and this attraction makes of point of covering some aspects of history that others might gloss over (I recall one plantation tour pointing out the "servant's quarters" when they drove past the slave cabins, for example).  As our guide explained, the French plantations differed in style from the American/English ones; as you can see from the photo, French design was more colorful and more utilitarian.  No ballrooms or grand libraries here--in fact, the rooms designated as working spaces were relatively simple, even sparse.  The tour of the house begins in the basement, where the simple, functional design of the house is explained.

According to the very engaged and informative tour guide, the plantation was re-named after the daughter of its last owners, who left in disgust after hearing of mistreatment of slaves.  The re-naming was apparently an attempt to entice her back.  Family stories recounted on the tour are from her book, Memories of  The Old Plantation Home, sold at the gift shop and the plantation's site.

Signs on the ground discuss the deterioration in treatment of the slaves after the Louisiana Purchase--apparently, France and the Catholic Church provided at least some protection in marital status to slaves, but this was abandoned after the territory changed hands.  The French influence remains; signs are given in French and English, and tours are offered for French speakers.

The plantation also bills itself as the home of the American tales of  B'rer Rabbit (or Compair Lapin), adapted from West-African stories retold and passed on by the plantation's slaves.  The tour features displays on the telling of the stories in the slave cabins.
  
The grounds themselves are beautiful in an almost tropical way.  We visited in Spring, so the weather was pleasant, and we enjoyed a quiet walk around the buildings. A final bonus--several cats kept on the premise, including one who seemed to see himself as a goodwill ambassador for tourists!

I would most definitely recommend Laura Plantation for anyone visiting the area.  Even if you've been on several plantation tours and believe you've done the whole "plantation thing," this one will offer a different perspective.  Make the trip from New Orleans, dress comfortably, and be prepared for a fascinating look at regional history, beautiful scenery, and a unique experience.

Update:  Visiting again in 2012, I noticed that the gift shop offered a wide selection of books on the history of the era, including versions of the Brer Rabbit story, and, of course, Memories of the Old Plantation Home, by Laura (Locoul Gore) herself.  I was surprised that they didn't carry any copies of Cane River, Lalita Tademy's  retelling of her family story of several generations of slave women working on a Louisiana River Planatation.  The gift shop does have wonderful sauces and spices (try the Red Pepper Jelly--really!), a few t-shirts, and home decorations.

From the website:

2247 Highway 18
Vacherie, LA 70090


The Plantation Store Ticket Office opens at 9:30 AM.
First tour of the day begins at 10:00 AM.
Final tour of the day begins at 4:00 PM.
Individual Admission Rate:
  • Adult: $18.00
  • Student (6-17): $5.00
  • Child (0-5): FREE
  • AAA Adult: $16.00
  • National Trust Adult: $16.00
  • Military: $16.00
  • We Save Adult: $16.00

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